Perfumeflair - Making sense of scents!
1st March 2021
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The world of fragrances is fascinating, but can be confusing to many of us, raising frequent questions such as:
‘Why does my fragrance fade quickly on me?’
‘Why does my fragrance smell good on me, but awful on my best friend?’
‘Why did my favourite fragrance smell great on me a few years ago, but doesn’t seem to work for me anymore?’

I have used the term ‘fragrance’ deliberately, as fragrances have different essential oil concentrations, which affect their staying power. The concentrations used across the industry are broadly as shown below, so check what it says on the bottle. If you believe you are wearing ‘perfume’, but the scent fades quickly, you might simply be wearing one of the weaker essential oil concentrations.

 

Fragrance Concentrations:

Typical essential or synthetic oil content (the rest is typically mainly alcohol and water)
Eau de cologne (EDC) – 7%
Eau de toilette (EDT) – 10-12%
Eau de parfum (EDP) – 16%
Parfum (Perfume) – 20% and more
This is why some fragrances fade much more quickly than others.

I’m often asked why we should walk round the department store for several minutes before deciding whether or not a new fragrance works for us. This is because a fragrance composition typically has 3 phases – head, heart and base. The head notes are those we instantly sense as the fragrance is sprayed. These light notes fade very quickly and the next phase, usually more floral based, comes through. These notes last for around 30-40 minutes, before giving way to the base notes. These are the notes which will stay with us for the best part of the day and are typically more woody and musky.

If you liked the head or heart notes of the fragrance you are testing, but then don’t like the base notes, you’ll have wasted a significant amount of money and the bottle, however expensive, will probably just sit on the shelf without being used. So, it’s best to take time to allow the base notes to come through on your skin before deciding ‘yes’ or ‘no’. 

 

Fragrance notes summary: 

Head – light/citrus, lasts a couple of minutes
Heart – floral, lasts 30-40 minutes
Base – heavier, woody/musky, lasts around 12 hours
So fragrances gradually change as the deeper notes come through.

If a group of people each tested the same fragrance on their skin, it would be likely to smell slightly different on each of them. This is because we each have our individual scent fingerprint. We are all different! Fragrances can be affected by factors such as age, gender, skin type, diet and health. If we start to take a new medication, this can also affect the way our chosen scent reacts to our body chemistry. So, if we notice that we no longer like our favourite scent as much as we used to, it is worth exploring others to find a new favourite which works better on our skin. When others notice that your fragrance is special, you know you’ve got it right!

Fragrance lovers also like to consider different choices for winter and summer, or for day or evening wear. Generally use lighter/fresher fragrances in summer, then stronger oriental/musky fragrances in winter. Fragrances can also influence our mood – feeling business-like during the day and more flamboyant for a special night out!

 

What ‘shelf life’ does my fragrance have?

Unopened bottles generally last well for 8-9 years or more.

Opened bottles generally last for around 12 months for lighter fragrances and around 18 months for oriental and woody fragrances before they start to deteriorate.

You will know when your fragrance no longer smells as good as it should. It’s always best to use it, rather than just save it for best!

 

Where should I apply my favourite scent?
 
Pulse points help to spread the scent – neck, wrist, behind the ear, inner elbow, behind the knees. (Mum and granny were certainly right on this one!)
 

How should I test a few fragrances at the same time?
 
Smelling a phial or bottle will focus only on the head notes. As mentioned earlier, we need to understand the changes through the heart and base notes, so ideally we need to test the fragrances on our skin. We can also use fragrance strips to decide whether or not we want to test a fragrance on our skin. If we just don’t like it on a fragrance strip, we are unlikely to want to wear it on our skin! Allow a few minutes for head notes to settle, then rate out of 10. 
 
Testing more than 2 or 3 scents together confuses our ability to recognise which scent is which. So, it is a good idea to use the right wrist for scent 1 and the left wrist for scent 2. Scent 3 could be tested on an elbow. (Do make a note of which scent has been placed where!) I usually offer a tea bag during perfume consultations. We go ‘nose blind’ so need to clear our heads to appreciate the next scent. So, a sniff of the tea bag between scents helps us to distinguish between the scents we are testing.
 
 
Is it OK to rub my wrists together?
 
Please don’t! This breaks up the perfume molecules and changes the smell.
 
 
Perfume doesn’t last on me!

This is a common cry for help! As mentioned earlier, weaker concentrations fade quickly. However, we get used to a scent and sometimes cannot smell it on ourselves after a while. Ask someone else if they can smell it on you. If they can still smell your favourite fragrance on you, then it is still there and working its magic.
 
We can also consider layering scents with other fragranced creams and gels, and there is much to understand about the fragrance families used by the perfume industry. These will be covered in other blog posts.
 
Meanwhile, whether choosing a fragrance for yourself or for a loved one, I hope I’ve helped you to move ahead with more confidence.
 
If you would like to arrange a perfume consultation, please contact me at pam@perfumeflair.com During CoVID restrictions, consultations can be conducted via Zoom and perfume samples are available for you to try.
 
The full range offered by Perfumeflair can be viewed at www.perfumeflair.com and on our catalogue links.
 
If you have any questions or would like to find a fragrance to suit you, please contact me at:
pam@perfumeflair.com
07815 767077
Do please leave a message if I cannot answer straight away.
 
A special fragrance makes us feel more special too!
 
With best wishes,
Pam
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About the Author

Victoria H

Member since: 11th March 2014

My name is Victoria Hunter and I'm a true Hertford person - I went to school in Hertford and grew up here. I understand the importance of bringing trusted businesses and the community together, and believe...

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