Today is the day I have been looking forward to for a long time. Up to now, the roads have been tame, despite the severe weather conditions and heavy traffic in parts. Now, as I prepare to leave the sanctuary of the Angell household, my mind turns to the road ahead. Today's ride will take me over the snow-capped mountains of central Norway to the west coast and route 17.
Having eaten a hearty breakfast of cheeses, bread sausages, pate and steaming black coffee, I said my farewells to Trond and family. I was back on the road and feeling very excited, as well as nervous.
A few miles down the road, the giant ski jump at Lillehammer came into view. I stopped to take a picture and the engine died. This was a re-occurrence of a problem I had encountered at the start of the journey. The idle on tick over was too slow, and the only way to adjust it was on a Suzuki dealer’s computer. Great!! That’s all I need, just as the most challenging part of the journey is upon me. Bess restarted, but I had to keep feathering the throttle in low gears to prevent it from cutting out. Thank you, Mr bloody useless mechanic from North Wales. Well, I’ve got to cuss someone.
Having left Lillehammer behind, the E6 started to climb. The snow and ice were building up around me. I stopped to put on another layer of clothes, and for the first time, felt the chill of Norway. Yet, there is another 700km before I reach the Arctic Circle. This is one big country! Riding steadily and feeling good, I passed through small towns and villages, only stopping for snacks and fuel, Mile after mile passed and the scenery was becoming more and more bleak. Very cold now, my heated grips were a life saver. Thank you, Marriott's of Birkenhead, for sponsoring these beauties.
My last stop before the mountain, I filled Bess to the brim with high octane fuel. I was carrying two litres of spare fuel, but took every opportunity to top up whenever possible. A local guy, on a fishing and skiing trip, chatted with me. He didn't think it was wise to ride the mountain that day. High winds and heavy snow were on the menu. Damn! I didn't want to hear that. Sometimes, ignorance is bliss. I rode on.
The climb was steady and undulating. This was what I had come to see. The vista of snow and ice for as far as the eye could see, the mountain looms above me. Tops of pine trees bending in the wind, yes, the wind is getting stronger as I climb. Rising higher and higher into this wintery wonderland.
After several hours I reach what appears to be the top. A plateau of brilliant white with a frozen lake in the foreground. I have to stop and share this with Jackie. The phone call is so clear; it’s great to hear her voice. I try to describe my surroundings, but there are not enough adjectives to do it justice. I ate my packed lunch up there, sheltering under Bess.
It is 4pm, I don't want to spend the night up here, so I speed up and start my descent. Passing through a long dark tunnel, I came out to a magnificent frozen canyon and continued down through hairpins and narrow passes. 6.30pm, I arrived in Trondheim and quickly found a hostel. "Sorry, we are full," said the receptionist. But then suggested I camp behind the hostel. Free of charge, too. I quickly erected my tent despite the wind and headed for the hostel canteen. A juicy steak, beer and a shower, and I felt revived. That was the best day’s ride so far. Tomorrow, an unexpected meeting and route 17. Good night!
