Tucked away from the bustle of Church Street and past the white-washed houses on Osbourne Villas is a little bakery called Sugardough.

With its striped awning and flowing cursive it looks like it’s been plucked from a children’s book. An array of doughy delights line the window and it’s hard not to press greedily against the glass upon seeing its deliciously flaky pastries, miniature pies and pillows of bread. The bakery looks especially irresistible on these dark winter days, wedged between two shops like a sweet-smelling amber bubble.

Sugardough is little more than a sliver on the inside, its narrow space filled with rickety tables and mismatched chairs. It’s packed during the early afternoon when people start to crowd around the cake stands but it also offers a cosy corner if you’re lucky enough to nab one.

What makes up for this lack of space is the service. The baristas are sweet and head chef Kane McDowell can often be seen pausing between tasks to chat to customers. Miles from the automated, semi-detached approach often associated with larger chains, many Hove residents have fallen for Sugardough’s friendly staff, and drop in for a pastry up to four times a week.

“I call this side of the street the village because there’s a real sense of community here,” explains Kane. “Support from locals is, to me, the secret of having a business in Brighton.

“I know we get thousands of tourists coming every week but that is a fickle trade. I love the fact that I know everyone who comes through the door.”

An Australian chef with a deep-rooted passion for the culinary arts, Kane’s love for Sugardough is as visible as the flour that clings to his hands. Having worked in all areas of the Melbourne restaurant business, he takes the expertise of the big kitchen and infuses it with his own quirky charm.

In a twist on tradition, Kane and his team cook throughout the morning and into the afternoon instead of preparing everything the previous evening. This allows a feast of smells to permeate the café, from the scent of fresh dough to the cheesy casings on pies, and means that everything on the shelves is still meltingly warm within.

Although savoury items are Kane’s speciality (everyone salivates over the sausage rolls' golden pastry and salty, spiced meat) Sugardough is a haven of sweet treats. Placed teasingly across the shop are dark slabs of brownie, spheres of flourless chocolate cake draped in glossy ganache, cones of crumbly granola and regal tiers of carrot cake.

During Halloween, trays of festive cupcakes are also placed along the counter, decked out in white chocolate skulls and little vanilla ghosts. The cakes are just as gorgeous to eat as to look at, mouthfuls of soft sponge offset by a buttercream kick that tastes rich but never cloying.  

Sugardough’s menu isn’t extravagant but neither is it meant to be. Kane says he wants his food to bring back memories of your grandmother’s dinner table rather than the haute cuisine glimpsed in magazines. It’s comforting, and just like the greatest food from childhood, is impeccably made. The team cooks with quality ingredients, from free-range dairy products to butcher’s best meat, and Kane admits to spending at least six hours perfecting croissants.

“The central focus of what I try to achieve is to enjoy the whole thing,” Kane says. “Every morning is a different experience.

"I love to create something from flour and water and see it change into something beautiful. I can’t think of anything that I would enjoy more.”

In October, Sugardough won its first award in the Tiptree World Bread Awards for its soft white crust sourdough. Kane shies away from the accolade, however, preferring to be known for his food rather than a certificate on his wall. He views cooking as an art and wants to use the newfound attention to inspire people to cook.

Sugardough’s old space lies across the street and Kane envisions a cooking school there, with people sharing recipes and bonding over a shared love for food. Until then, Sugardough’s customers will continue to stream in to snap up a coveted slice of cake before everyone beats them to it. 

Read more about Sugardough at www.facebook.com/pages/Sugardough/161421667339272.